Part 1 of this tutorial shows you how I planned and cut out the fabric pieces. Now I’ll share how I sewed it together.
First I sewed up the back section of the hood (dark green). A trick to match up the straight edges of the centre with the curved edges of either side is to stay stitch (I use a stitch length of 4 to 4.5) just inside the 5/8″ seam allowance, then snip up to that line about every inch. Then when you pin the sections together, the seam line curves nicely into place. The picture below shows it after sewing together. I use a stitch length of 3 for lighter fabric, 3.5 for heavier fabric, when garment sewing.
Then I matched up each pair of the petals and stitched together along the two petal edges (leaving the base open). Trim the seam allowances to 3/8″. Cut off the tip of the petal, snip the inside curves, and clip the outside curves, so when you turn them right side out they lie flat. If you haven’t done it before, it’s a bit hard to remember how to do it, but you have to think about how the seam allowance will lie. Or get a good reference book.
Next, I sewed up the front sections of the hood. Lay the petals in place, and pin well. I sewed the petals to the front section with a basting stitch (4.5 to 5 stitch length), before matching the back and front to sew the final seam. Again, my recommendation is lots of pins. Garment sewing is forgiving, if things don’t match up you can just trim the edges even.
The lining was simple, just sew the two sides to the centre. The knit was stretchy enough I didn’t have to stay stitch. Then match up the lining and outside, right sides together, and sew together around the outside, leaving about 3 to 4 inches for turning. I switched to my walking foot for this because I was worried about dealing with the knit, which worked great. Again, clip corners and curves, and trim the seam allowances, before you turn it right side out.
Lastly, pin the opening shut, and go around the entire hood with a topstitch 1/8″ from the edge. I changed the thread for the back side to a green, and used pink for the rest, with beige in the bottom.
I managed to talk my daughter into modelling it although not to stand still.
Linking up to crazymomquilts Finish it Up Friday.